(888) 450-0858
24/7 Emergency Service
24/7 Emergency Service
Here's the straight, calm version first: stop the water, cut power only if it's safe, keep people out, and get a local team moving under a 60-minute response pledge. Everything else builds from those four points. The reason this order works is simple physics and risk: water volume and time determine damage, and electricity mixed with water adds injury risk you really don't want.
Request a sub-60-minute dispatch and live ETA
About 1 in 60 insured homes files a water damage or freezing claim each year, and the average payment is about $11,650 (Insurance Information Institute, ISO data; 2017–2021/2021 updates). Faster shutoff and drying shrink the odds you'll be on the wrong side of those numbers.
Education first: damage accelerates with both flow rate and time. One inch of water can cause up to $25,000 in damage (FEMA). So the first ten minutes matter more than the next ten hours. Safety sits on top: water near outlets or appliances can energize surfaces; if that's happening, you isolate power to affected circuits at the panel before touching anything wet. Then you shut off the water—main first, or the closest fixture valve if that's all you can reach immediately. Keep kids and pets out to avoid slips and shock hazards. Vent humidity if weather is mild (open a window or two), but once pro dehumidifiers arrive, you'll keep doors and windows shut.
1) Restoration first for fast extraction and containment; they reduce damage immediately and often coordinate the plumber. 2) Plumber second to fix the break—this can be simultaneous if you have help, but restoration is usually your fastest damage control. 3) Insurance once the site is safe and documented, not before, because you want accurate photos and a clear account of what happened and when.
You're not overreacting; you're buying time and lowering loss during a very expensive hour.
Shutting off the source is the single biggest damage reducer. The main shutoff is typically where the line enters your home: garage wall, crawlspace, utility closet, near the water heater, or in a curb box at the street. Ball valves have a lever—turn it a quarter-turn so the handle is perpendicular to the pipe. Gate valves have a wheel—turn it clockwise gently until snug. Do not force a corroded valve; stems snap, and then you've got a bigger problem. In condos and townhomes, find the unit isolation valve; only close shared risers if your association or maintenance directs it. If you can't reach the main, close toilet, sink, or appliance supply valves—slowing flow still helps.
Typical Loganville setups: Slab-on-grade homes often have the main in a street-side meter/curb box or a wall box near the water heater. Crawlspace homes often have the main on the front foundation wall where the line enters. Apartments may require maintenance to shut a corridor or mechanical room valve; call them right away and document the time.
Keep a curb-key or a T-handle shutoff tool in the garage if your main is in a street box. In a pinch, some adjustable wrenches can rotate the curb stop, but a proper key is safer and faster.
If you're hesitating because you're unsure which valve is "the one," close the obvious ones you can reach and get the restoration dispatcher on speaker; they'll walk you through it while they dispatch the crew.
Electricity and water don't mix—conservative steps are the right steps. If water reached outlets, baseboards, or appliances, shut off breakers to those rooms before touching anything wet. Do not stand in water while operating the panel; use rubber-soled shoes and approach on a dry path. If the return or ducts may be wet, avoid running HVAC—it can spread moisture and contaminants through the system. Wear gloves and closed-toe shoes; if the water is dark or has an odor, treat it as contaminated until proven otherwise. Watch ceilings: any sagging or bowing drywall means evacuate that room until a pro secures it. And for receptacles in basements or laundry areas, GFCI protection is required under NEC 210.8(A); if you see tripping, that may be the protective device doing its job.
Don't reach through water or past dripping surfaces to get to the panel—it isn't worth it. Stay out of standing water, use battery lights for visibility, and block off the area to keep children and pets away. A technician with proper PPE will shut power safely when they arrive.
One quick reassurance: taking the cautious route here prevents injuries and also protects your claim record—insurers expect basic safety, not heroics.
Containment buys time. A few minutes of smart work now can save flooring, cabinets, and walls. Start by directing water to hard surfaces—towel or sheet "dams" help you steer flow away from carpet. Move furniture, rugs, and electronics to a dry zone; put foil or blocks under legs to keep stains and moisture from wicking. Open cabinets and closets to release trapped humid air; pull out the lowest drawer to create an air path under vanity bases. A wet/dry vac can remove surface water from tile or vinyl if the power to that area is safely off and you're not creating an electrical risk. If a ceiling paint bubble forms, pierce gently at the lowest point only if the power is off and you have a bucket and drop cloth ready; otherwise, leave it and isolate the room.
Skip household fans without a dehumidifier—basic fans can push moisture into walls and make drying harder later. Don't pull engineered wood planks without guidance; many can be saved with panel drying if started quickly. Avoid bleach on porous materials; it doesn't reach embedded moisture and can give a false sense of "done." Frankly, less is more—remove bulk water, then let controlled dehumidification handle vapor.
If this feels a bit messy, that's normal—containment isn't pretty, it's effective.
Get a Loganville crew moving now. Share your address (include ZIP 30052), any gate codes, and the best parking spot for a truck-mounted extractor. Describe the source (burst supply, failed appliance, etc.), which floors or rooms are affected, and when it started. Ask for a sub-60-minute dispatch and text updates. Confirm IICRC-certified technicians, background checks, and that they'll provide a written moisture map. On arrival you want them to stop the source, extract standing water, map moisture, and stabilize with containment and dehumidification. They should bring extraction units, dehumidifiers, air movers, moisture meters, and EPA-registered antimicrobials if category/conditions warrant.
Mention any sewage odor or discoloration—could be Category 3 and needs stricter controls. Note ceiling sagging, flickering lights, or tripped breakers so they plan safety first. Share pet details, alarm codes, and HOA restrictions so they can enter and start work without delays. Also ask if they bill using insurance-standard estimating (Xactimate) so pricing aligns with adjuster expectations.
Call Now: (888) 450-0858 — ask plainly for a 60-minute response pledge; honestly, a specific clock beats a vague "ASAP."
Documentation speeds approvals and reduces out-of-pocket costs. Take wide shots and close-ups of every affected area before you move items—rooms, baseboards, walls, ceilings, and contents. Record the path of water: along hallways, under cabinets, through vents, into crawlspace—write down the suspected source and the time you discovered it. Keep damaged items until the adjuster says you can discard. Save receipts for emergency purchases and any temporary housing. Ask your restoration team for moisture logs, floor plans, and an itemized scope using insurer-standard pricing. Start a contents list with make, model, and rough value. If the home is unlivable, the ISO HO-3 form typically includes Additional Living Expense around 20% of Coverage A—your insurer can confirm your exact limit.
| Metric | Typical Value | Source/Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Annual chance of a water/freezing claim | ~1 in 60 homes | Triple-I (ISO industry data) |
| Share of homeowners claims by frequency | 23.8% are water/freezing | Triple-I 2017–2021 |
| Average water/freezing claim payment | $11,650 | Triple-I (2021 update) |
| Mitigation/restoration cost (national) | $1,304–$5,650 (avg $3,291) | HomeAdvisor/Angi 2024 |
| Burst pipe repair (typical) | $400–$1,500 | HomeAdvisor/Angi 2024 |
| Damage from 1 inch of water | Up to $25,000 | FEMA |
Answer: Usually yes, if it's a sudden and accidental discharge. Exclusions can apply for neglect (e.g., heat off during a freeze) or long-term leaks. Structure is under the home policy; your contents are covered under personal property. If you can't live there, ask about Additional Living Expense. Confirm details with your carrier; document thoroughly before cleanup.
Short reassurance: neat, time-stamped photos and a clean moisture log are your best allies when an adjuster asks hard questions.
Mold can initiate within 48 hours on common building materials at high humidity; lab work has shown paper-faced gypsum can show visible growth in 2–3 days at very high RH around room temperature. That's why the goal is simple: remove bulk water within hours and establish dehumidification the same day. Once dehumidifiers are running, keep doors and windows closed to hold target humidity; the EPA recommends indoor RH below 60% (ideally 30–50%). If carpet is soaked, lifting the edge and removing the pad is common—many pads aren't salvageable. Expect selective wall cuts where wicking occurred, often 12–24 inches for clean water, more if contaminated. If odors or dust rise during work, request HEPA filtration; HEPA filters capture 99.97% of particles ≥0.3 microns.
Don't run HVAC if returns or ducts were flooded. If cleared safe, keep the system on recirculate and avoid pulling in humid outside air. Replace filters after mitigation; wet work can load them quickly. Dehumidifier ratings are based on AHAM test conditions (80°F and 60% RH), so real-world performance varies—techs will monitor and adjust daily.
Shorter times and lower humidity reduce risk; based on CDC/EPA guidance and academic findings.
You're aiming for fast, controlled drying—not just air movement—which is exactly what the crew will set up.
Some situations need certified techniques and PPE, period. Any sewage or drain water (discolored, foul) is Category 3 and requires containment, removal of affected porous materials, and sanitation. Saturated ceilings, subfloors, or insulation call for a professional assessment—weight loads and hidden moisture can be risky. Multi-room saturation, cabinets, hardwoods, or crawlspace water require advanced drying systems. If water ran for hours unseen, assume hidden pockets in wall cavities, under toe-kicks, and between layers. Commercial or multi-unit losses need documentation, coordination, and often after-hours scheduling to limit disruption.
If you can extract with a shop-vac in under ~30 minutes and only a small hard-floor area is impacted, DIY may be enough—maybe. If walls, subfloors, or insulation read wet on a meter, get pros with thermal imaging and meter-driven targets. When in doubt, ask for a no-obligation inspection and moisture map; you'll either get peace of mind or catch a problem early.
Quick reassurance: calling in help isn't overkill; it's a measured response to a high-cost risk curve.
A clear, standardized process reduces stress. First, a safety check and source control. Then immediate extraction with truck-mounted units. Next, moisture mapping using meters and thermal cameras and a written plan with drying goals and equipment counts. They'll install dehumidifiers and air movers—plus containment and HEPA filtration if needed. Per IICRC S500, they'll document readings at least every 24 hours and adjust equipment until materials reach dry standards. Typical dry-out is 3–5 days, longer for hardwoods or insulation. You should receive a transparent, itemized estimate; rebuild is scheduled after dry-down verification.
Tell the team about any narrow stairwells, fragile finishes, or alarm sensors before they stage gear. If you work nights or have kids' nap windows, ask for a daily check-in time and text alerts—equipment is loud, and planning helps. If anyone in the home has sensitivities, request HEPA air filtration from the start.
This part feels noisy and, frankly, inconvenient—but it's the shortest path back to normal.
After dry-down, the plumber pressure-tests and replaces compromised sections—not just the obvious break. Restoration covers drywall, insulation, flooring, cabinetry, and paint; permits are pulled where required and work is brought to code. Ask for direct insurance billing, photos, and moisture logs in your claims package. Before sign-off, do a final walkthrough and get a written warranty. To prevent repeats: insulate exposed pipes, install smart leak sensors, and check your pressure-reducing valve (PRV). Municipal pressures often run 40–80 psi; above 80 psi the International Plumbing Code requires a PRV at the building. High pressure plus a cold snap is a rough combo for older lines.
Freeze exposure isn't rare in our region—Atlanta and Athens normals include many nights at or below 32°F (NOAA). During freezes, drip faucets on exterior walls, open cabinet doors to warm pipes, and insulate hose bibs. Crawlspace vents should be sealed in cold snaps and the main shutoff location should be known, labeled, and accessible. Basically, you want fewer surprises next time.
Confidence note: closing the loop with PRV maintenance and sensors buys you real, everyday protection.
Local context matters. Many Loganville homes are slab-on-grade; water on a slab tends to travel across hard floors into baseboards and under cabinets, so early edge lifting and base access is useful. If you need the street shutoff, confirm whether your address is served by city or county water and call their after-hours number for curb stop assistance; ask about any boil advisories if the break involved the main. For HOAs or multi-unit buildings, notify management early to access shared valves and coordinate mitigation windows. Document any storms or outages that align with the loss event—the timing helps with claim causation. And ask for a crew familiar with Georgia code basics (GFCI locations, IPC PRV thresholds) and local insurer processes.
Small reassurance: even if your home type isn't textbook, the physics of water are consistent—source, safety, containment, drying.
Decision-making under pressure needs a simple path. Here it is: 1) Shut water off—main if you can, fixture valves if you can't. 2) Kill power to wet rooms only if you can do it safely from a dry spot. 3) Keep people out and vent lightly until pros arrive. 4) Call a local mitigation team and ask, specifically, for a sub-60-minute dispatch with GPS ETA and IICRC-certified techs. 5) Start photos and a notes log—time discovered, rooms involved, source you suspect. That's it for the first hour. The rest is process.
What you can expect once they're en route: a clear on-arrival plan (source control, extraction, mapping), daily moisture checks with adjustments, and honest timelines. Ask for insurer-standard pricing (Xactimate) to keep estimates aligned. If your home is unlivable, ask about ALE coverage so you're not scrambling later. And if something feels off—like humidity isn't dropping or a ceiling starts to sag—say so; meter-driven targets guide decisions, but your observations matter.
Basically, you need urgent relief and clear instructions, not guesswork. We get it. Call Now: (888) 450‑0858 and request a 60‑minute response pledge. The fastest fix starts with the next call you make.